All Aboard The Big Boy
Just wow. In Cabo San Lucas, at Land’s End, lies a pair of beaches that together and separately are simply in a league of their own. Playa de Los Amantes (or Playa del Amor) and Playa del Divorcio share the very tip of the Baja peninsula, just shy of the spot where the Sea of Cortez and the Pacific Ocean meet in spectacular fashion. Two sides of the same cape, if you will.
There are several ways to get here, including as part of an excursion, simply kayaking over yourself if you’re up for it, or hitching a Veuve-soaked ride on your baller buddy’s booty yacht should you run with such a crowd. We opted for a humble water taxi from the marina. Courtesy of the most affable Little Eddie, water taxi liaison extraordinaire, we found ourselves on The Big Boy, a vessel expertly helmed by one Capitán Roberto and tended by first mate and guide Ale, who turned out to be a virtual fount of information about the area. We couldn’t wait to get to the beach, but the ride was way too brief, so delightful it was.
Making our way out of the marina and along the rocky coast through smooth blue-green waters, we saw our very first sea lions in the wild frolicking here and there all around us, a criminally enchanting welcoming party that melted our hearts all over the deck in an instant. As we approached our destination, Ale explained to us that the two beaches are thus named due to the fact that one lies on the Sea of Cortez side, the other on the Pacific side of the peninsula, and that at a particularly tempestuous time of the year, the stretch of sand that links them gets flooded, temporarily uniting them in topographical matrimony. Once the waters subside, they call it quits, so to speak.
Love, No Divorce & A Couple of Cold Ones
Capitán Roberto and Ale left us at the spectacular and relatively quiet Lovers’ Beach (it was a weekday) with a pick-up time and a stern warning not to swim at Divorce Beach on the Pacific side. Roger that. Completely bedazzled by our surroundings, we cracked open a couple of frosty chelas (beers), crossed the connecting stretch to see what all the fuss was about, and immediately understood why the warning. After our feet almost fried off in the white-hot sand, we were greeted by an awesome yet deceivingly inviting expanse of swelling and crashing blue that had undertow written all over it. This was Vee’s first time laying eyes on the Pacific, and she was definitely not let down, but no swim indeed. Just a little de-frying dip of the feet, thank you very much.
After rendering homage to the magnificence and still married, we headed back to Lovers’ Beach between the towering rocks, cracked another chela, went for a swim without dying, marvelled at absolutely everything, stalked a garbage-picking seagull, and waited for The Big Boy to take us home. Absolutamente espléndido, we hope you enjoy the video!
